Study Abroad Vietnam: Holistic Medicine Course, Educational Review

   

     Studying abroad is an opportunity everyone should take if they can. My course was six weeks long, long enough to get used to life in Vietnam. This country has an interesting history, culture, and tradition. The focus of my study was Traditional Holistic Vietnamese Medicine, a field that views health through a spiritual and accessible lens. We also had language classes to help us acclimate, although I will admit I was really bad at them. 

       We started in Ho Chi Minh, also known as Saigon. I personally had been to Vietnam 4 times before and was happy to be back in the bustling environment. I met my group at the hotel where we were all staying. We stayed there together for a few days before moving in with host families. Everyone had randomly assigned host families, but one of my old bosses applied to a part of the host family program, and I stayed with her. My classmate's host families were all ridiculously wealthy, and many of them had housepets, indoor swimming pools, and rec centers!

    We went to classes at the Univerisity of Medicine and Pharmacology. Our coursework included theoretical lectures, practical workshops, and field visits, providing a comprehensive understanding of this holistic approach. This is where I will admit my greatest disappointment with the course. Our translator and chaperone assigned to us were very bad at translating. She was also very argumentative with the lecturers and with students regarding the kinds of questions we were asking. She would often bypass the information being told to her by lecturers and tell her own stories (she has never been a medical professional). Those who spoke Vietnamese in the group confirmed what she was saying was not at all accurate and would try to help translate it correctly. Because of this, I don't think I got very much out of the lectures and Q&As. Aside from this, though, it was awesome!!

                                     

    I learned the most through observation and through the visits we made to medical sites. We went to a wide range of medical businesses, not just holistic ones. We went to pagodas, western-style hospitals, traditional medicine hospitals, and the medicine street. The streets are often organized by trade, so all medicine is on one street, clothes are on another, food is on another, etc. We were also required to interview with locals and NGOs. I learned more from host families than I did at the university. We got to practice doing acupuncture, massage, meditation, and making herbal pills. We also got to observe procedures being done on patients, mostly acupuncture and consultations. This was another source of culture shock for our group, as Vietnam does not have privacy laws or HIPPA. We were all shocked that we could observe without the patient's permission. Most of them did not seem to mind. Privacy is viewed differently in Vietnamese culture, especially in the city, where there are so many people. Often, families live several to a room. 

    We explored historical sites, enjoyed traditional music and dance performances, and participated in local festivals. Ho Chi Minh has a traditional medicine museum, as well as several war museums. We also traveled around the country quite a bit. We took a vist to Vung Tau, which is a beach town. This was just a fun excursion with no educational intentions. We also went to the Can Gio mangrove forest, where they grow a variety of food and medicine. This forest was destroyed during the Vietnam war and is now mostly grown back. We got our drinks stolen by monkeys, paddled out to see bats, and fed alligators. We also visited Dalat, which is in central Vietnam, and Ben Tre, which is in the Mekong Delta. In these towns, we visited more hospitals. 

    I enjoyed being able to go as a student and not to work. I was able to immerse myself more in the culture. By the time I had to go home, I really didn't want to leave. Hopefully, I will be back soon!

Study Abroad Vietnam: Holistic Medicine Course, Lifestyle Review

  This is part 2 of my last blog. Now, I'm going to talk about all the fun stuff. If I am being honest, this was mostly a fun stuff experience. Even though America is the "Land of the Free", many of my generation find being alive a series of endless compromises. In Vietnam, I never had to compromise on anything. I enjoyed freedom, which I thought was just an intangible and broken promise. I had mental freedom, physical freedom to go anywhere I wanted, academic freedom to explore topics that I found interesting, and, most enlightening, financial freedom. A poor student in America is a very rich one in Vietnam. Remember that this is because of the dollar exchange rate and economic freedom, which only you, as a foreigner, experience and is not necessarily the experience of locals. 

    Not worrying about money means you can afford things that may be a luxury back home. I could buy a coffee every morning and evening for just 50 cents. I could purchase bubble tea and eat steak and fish. I could order a drink with dinner at restaurants. If you ever go to Vietnam, don't get stuck thinking frugally if you already do back home. Go get your nails done, sit in cafes for hours, and go to fancy clubs and bars, which there are many of. Food is cheap and fresh. I lost 10 pounds without changing how much I eat; the food is so clean, and nutrition is based on the five elements. Food is often clean, simple, and rich in vitamins and protein. All fast food joints have virtually the same menu, so I recommend eating at local joints. Saigon has a very large array of cuisines. Thai and Indian food was the best I've had (shoutout to Haveli Restaurant). I also had a waffle and duck leg dish, which I have thought about every day since. 

    Another form of freedom I now had was physical freedom. I could go wherever I wanted. Mornings in Vietnam begin early. I was often awake by 6 am, and my host family was up even earlier. This left me a lot of time to explore the city. Joining the locals, I developed a routine of starting my day with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, often enjoyed at a small street-side café. Banh Mi is a really common and easy food if you are on the go. You can download Grab on your phone and go anywhere in the city for a few dollars. Also, as a female-presenting person, I will note that I felt safe everywhere. People who talk to you on the street are genuine and not creepy. I could walk around with both headphones in without fearing someone creeping up behind me. If you look lost, people will help you. Grab drivers won't drop you off in random locations or try to steal you. Roofing is the only problem when it comes to safety as a woman, so still watch people make your drinks and don't go in unlabeled cabs. Cab scams are also big. 

             

     Activities in Vietnam are also cheap. We can go to the zoo, cat and dog cafes, karaoke, hiking, billiards, museums, and parks for cheap or even free. My favorite bar we went to was acoustic. They had free drinks for ladies' night and live music. They even had some metal artists on the setlist! Several in my group also left with new tattoos and piercings, myself included. It is generally very safe and clean to get tattoos done, and also stupidly cheap. I myself have two tattoos and a piercing. One girl found a place that would do her belly button for about 7 US dollars. I recommend Morgan Ink Studios if you are going. I got to put a pin on a map of where I am from on the wall. 

            

    If you are going to study abroad and find yourself with some free time, do everything you can. Say yes to everything. Our group size was small enough that we could invite everyone to everything. It was really lucky that all of us ended up liking each other. Almost everyone was from Yale, so I could compare my university life with theirs. I made many good friends, and leaving them was hard.  

                                         

    Bring a disposable or digital camera. Also, leave your makeup at home or get tinted sunscreen. Your foundation will be dripping as soon as you step outside. It doesn't matter how good you think it is. Even if you don't care for the course, I highly recommend it for the lifestyle!

Untraditionally Abroad

 Embarking on a semester abroad is challenging; however, going abroad to three different countries is even more challenging. This intensive, semester-long program - 16 academic credits, three developing contexts in the global south, cross-cultural learning, geographical differences, stark contrasts, and vast disparities in each context. How do we even dive into the complexities of each culture? Have I processed everything that has happened? Will I grasp what experiences we lived?

Vietnam is one of the most beautiful countries where tradition has seamlessly blended with modernity. Hanoi has influences from Chinese dynasties, French colonialism, and periods of Vietnamese dynastic rule. As a result, it is a diverse cultural tapestry, blending Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, and elements of French culture. The hum of scooters creates a busy atmosphere while street foods of banh mi sandwiches, bowls of bun cha, and crispy spring rolls waft from street vendors, begging patrons to take a break and eat. Old temples stand as a reminder of the country's rich culture. There is no shortage of cafes or sites to visit as one navigates the labyrinthine streets of the Old Quarter, a maze of narrow alleys lined with colorful buildings, each specializing in unique trades and goods. Flower vendors adorn the streets as women in traditional clothing lines take photos of the scenery around them

South Africa brought about a new pace. The jewel of Africa, where the waves of the Atlantic Ocean meet a new wonder of the world, a growing city ready to be unveiled. The town, nestled at the southwestern tip of the African continent, is a breathtaking blend of natural wonders, rich history, and vibrant culture. Traveling through the vibrant V&A Waterfront, one will feel the breeze carried off from the sea with the wonderful smells of food all around. This bustling harbor precinct is not only a shopper's paradise but also a gateway to Robben Island, a poignant reminder of South Africa's history. The vibrant houses and cobblestone streets make for a photographer's dream as anyone can walk through the city's history at the District Six Museum, a poignant tribute to a community forcibly displaced during apartheid. A beautiful and complex place still learning how to heal.

Finally, the vibrancy of Buenos Aires, Argentina brings you to a new home you did not know about. The vibrant colors of La Boca, a neighborhood where art and culture collide. Stroll along Caminito, a street museum adorned with lively murals, street performers, and artisan markets. Don't forget to visit La Bombonera, the iconic stadium of Boca Juniors, a pilgrimage site for football enthusiasts. Make sure to not die when trying to get a glimpse of the Messiah himself, Messi. Please take a break in the many parks for merienda – a time to relax, drink yerba mate, and eat a sweet treat. Listen to the echoes of tango, the warmth of its people, and the timeless allure of a city where tradition and modernity seamlessly intertwine. Hasta luego, Buenos Aires – a place where every step is a dance, and every moment is a celebration of life. 

Embarking on a semester abroad in Vietnam, South Africa, and Argentina was a transformative odyssey that transcended academic boundaries. Immersed in the vibrant tapestry of Hanoi and the bustling heartbeat of Vietnam, I delved into the intricacies of health policy, social determinants, and cultural nuances. Transitioning to South Africa, the journey continued amid the kaleidoscope of Cape Town's landscapes, unraveling disparities and resilience in health systems. With its rhythmic tango, Buenos Aires unveiled the cultural dimensions of health. Outside classes, my peers and I took to late-night karaoke, academic nights, dancing the tango with strangers, motorbikes in Vietnam, and homestay after homestay – no words to describe the journey. I can only offer some blurbs about the places, knowing it does nothing to capture the whole sensation. 

- Kathlin Ai Chang

The Familiar Foreigner

Xin chào

Welcome to Vietnam ☺️ Strap on your Andes helmet, and allow me to whisk you away to a sea of honking scooters alongside fresh earth, golden rice fields, and copper pod trees to charm you with their beckoning sway.

Scents of savory fried tofu and sweet milk flower will fill your nose once we reach the heart of Hà Nội. Be careful to not burn your calves or kick any passersby as you dismount the scooter parked on the sidewalk in front of Café Giàng. I’ve made both of these mistakes.

We’re at this café to try the famous cà phê trứng. This is a special egg coffee invented in the 40’s during a time of necessity. When there was no cream available, a man named Nguyen Giàng whisked together a combination of eggs and sugar. 

Struggle meals often stick. Not only did this creation suffice for the time being, it also became one of Vietnam’s most beloved delicacies for years to come.

At about 100mg of caffeine per cup, Vietnamese cà phê is much stronger than American coffee. Coffee shops are an impressive social component of Hà Nội’s thriving community, and often stay open until 11 p.m, or just never close. People are happy to gather for coffee well into the late hours of the night.

The most delicious and popular coffees to try are cà phê trứng, along with cà phê sữa, coffee with condensed milk, bạc xỉu, white coffee with lots of condensed milk, cà phê dừa, coconut coffee, and the recent but iconic cà phê muối, which is salted coffee with a hint of caramel.

On my first day in Hà Nội, I checked into a hostel and walked around Hoàn Kiếm lake. A very young Vietnamese girl spotted me out as a foreigner and asked if she could join me on my walk to practice her English through conversation. 

I’m like, child, where is your mother?

This girl spoke perfect English because after school, her mother made the two-hour drive by scooter each day from their village to Hà Nội for “English Lessons”. These lessons involved a hunt for approachable foreigners to speak with, and her mother safely observing from a distance. Her mother did not speak English, since they lived too far away to interact regularly with foreigners. 

Over six generations ago, my family lived northeast of Hà Nội, in the Bắc Ninh Province. While Southern Vietnam only has two seasons, Northern Vietnam is home to all four. Hence, falling leaves and Autumn poetry. 

The middle section of Vietnam is the most difficult place to live because of their monsoons from September to April. Northern Vietnam uses a 6-toned language, while Southern and Central Vietnam have 5 tones and varying dialects.

Vietnamese language is adaptable, and it boasts special meanings and imagination. Over time, it has been influenced by Chinese, French, and English.

The very landscape is full of legends and stories that connect history with symbolism. According to my Grandma, Ba Thuy, Hà Nội is the central city of the North, based between three rivers. Hà means “river”, while Nội is “middle”. It is surrounded by River Đáy River Hồng And River Nhuệ.

During the third dynasty, King Lý Thái Tổ saw a flying dragon and named the capital of Vietnam “Thăng Long”, “Rising Dragon”, for this reason. The dragon flies west from Hà Nội, over Bắc Ninh, and to Hạ Long Bay. For this reason, “Hạ Long” means “landing dragon”. Naturally, I followed the flight of this dragon and found myself in Hạ Long Bay.

I wondered if my ancestors spent their time here. There was not much development so it may have looked the same. I felt glad to experience a natural, undeveloped Vietnam. The biggest cave discovered here is called Son Dong, which is three caves beyond Hạ Long Bay. 

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On my upper right-hand side, I noticed the rocks look like feet dangling off the cliff.

In Hạ Long Bay, I hiked the Đảo Tí Tốp island, kayaked through Tuan Chau, and explored the stalagmites and stalactites of Hang Sửng Sốt cave. When Vietnamese people look at a cave, it’s like cloud watching. You’re supposed to use all of your senses to imagine different symbols and stories that the cave is telling you with its different rock formations.

When I returned to Ha Noi, different family members took me to their favorite restaurants and cafés. My cousin Tanh took me to the Lý Club. I found this restaurant to be the most interesting because it serves as a French Vietnamese cafe in the morning, a Latin American club at night, and the very hospital my Uncle was born in long ago.

Hà Nội has 36 old quarters, and my family lived right next to my hostel on 11th and 12th Hue street, after migrating from the south during the revolution in 1945. 

My Aunt took me to a café that used to be her house. She got me three different drinks: milk bubble tea, chia seed lemonade, and cà phê sữa; I liked them all a lot.

I made my way to the Múa caves by rowing through green fields of baby rice. Since it wasn’t quite rice season yet, the young green stalks were harvested to make cơm, a rare Vietnamese dish, and piled near the crops.

My great-Grandfather was an engineer for the very train you’d take to travel across Vietnam. He is among the first group of Vietnamese engineers. The railroad ran from the North to the South, and Cambodia to Laos. During that time, his wife and family moved with him from North to South, and then Laos and Cambodia all throughout the time spent working on this railroad.

From Hà Nội, I visited the surf in Đà Nẵng and the old village of Hội An.

I ended the trip in Bà Nà (Lady Ponagar) Hills before leaving for Ho Chi Minh City. 

Ho Chi Minh City was once called Saigon. There’s a noticeable political and linguistic difference between terms used by the old and young generations in HCMC. The Northern government named Ho Chi Minh City after the old president, because his strongest desire was to unite the country.

I ate incredible food in Ho Chi Minh City because I made it my mission to find everything that my Grandma would buy from the markets. This included bánh xèo, bánh giò, bún chả, bánh cuốn, xôi đậu phộng, cơm tấm, xôi khúc, nước mía, bánh giầy, giò lụa, and even bánh chưng, which I had on Vietnamese Independence Day.

I ventured out to visit Củ Chi Tunnels, and learned about the strategies that were in place for the Vietnam war. It was common for familes to crowd into their home’s 4 sq meter bunker when they heard bombs dropping. Since the Vietnamese could escape through the Saigon river, Củ Chi was chosen as the prime location between Saigon and Cambodia.

Tunnels were dug by hand with no electricity, and the Ho Chi Minh trail was long, stretching from North to South. There were 16,000 gorilla forces and 5,000 of them were women.

I thought about how babies were born in these tunnels. People tried not to enter the fighting zones or go out at night. War changed the peaceful countryside of Củ Chi. Above these tunnels 60 years ago, my Grandma had become established with her laundry business and prepared to move my family to O`ahu. 

My Grandmother is Thuy Thu-Lam Nguyên, the first Vietnamese concessioner with PX . She wrote a book about her life, “Fallen Leaves”, printed by Yale University a few years ago for the students to study about Vietnam.

Returning to Củ Chi, now that the war is over, I saw that there are still many hazards and death traps in the well preserved tunnel. It is a reminder of the privilege I live in to not witness the war crimes my family did.

I used my privilege to visit Vietnam as an appreciative tourist, while many of my elders who fled during the 40’s are unable to return because of their PTSD.

I didn’t know what to expect in Vietnam. I was afraid that I wouldn’t resonate with any of it because I am only a quarter Vietnamese. But walking in the footprints that my Grandmother left only a few decades ago sparked a deep gratitude in me. 

Returning to the motherland as a familiar foreigner, everything I’ve accomplished shows I’m a result of the sacrifices and prayers I am just beginning to understand.

I hope I’ve given a fair warning that loving Vietnam may become my whole personality for the next 3 years 😋

I plan to get my Bachelor’s degree and some TESOL classes under my belt by spring 2023. The dream is to graduate on my birthday, May 8, and move to Vietnam to teach English for a year before graduate school.

So that’s my future. It’s incredible where study abroad has lead me after saying yes to every opportunity that came my way. 

Presently, I am safe n sound in Colchester, England and spending my Autumn term at the University of Essex. For the first time, I get to watch the leaves change color as I take classes, begin my next blog, participate in clubs, and create my Gilman Scholarship community project. 

Stay tuned to learn more about the University system in England, because this really is a great school and I’m already enjoying my classes and societies so much.

Getting Around!

Suggestion. Although studying is the first priority, you are studying abroad so experience ABROAD. Studying in Thailand allowed us to be close to many other Southeast Asian countries and experience them as well as many parts of Thailand.

Both photos above are from our travels in Vietnam. Being honest I have never had a major desire to go to Vietnam but it turned out to be my most favorite trip of the whole experience, including anywhere in Thailand. The first photo shows the Golden Bridge; it was a location I had seen in a post on facebook that I thought seemed cool, so, we went! A dream almost; the ability to see a photo of someplace than just decide, there! I will travel there! I will experience that! The second photo I just love as it shows the cultural diversity from our usual. I mean you might see this on a busy market day in Chinatown but mostly you don't see this in the United States. The open market, street bargaining, danger of possibly getting hit by a passing motorcyclist; it's a thrill ride full of excitement and adrenaline. 

The photo above shows me at Wat Phra in Cambodia. We only had one day here due to school but we made the most of it visiting the night market then waking up before 5 am to catch the sunrise above the main temple. 

I suggest experiencing all the different ways to travel! Traveled by so many ways: train, bus, plane, ferry, taxi's, and even little trucks called tuk-tuks. 

My final suggestion is to try and experience anything and everything! I loved having no limitations and trying all things no matter how strange from foods to experiences! Above I am eating a scorpion, I also ate a tarantula!

So, long story short, study and get good grades but also don't forget to HAVE FUN!!!